“I am the Way, the Truth and the Life.” Jesus, in John 14:6.
“There’s no need to do the Camino when the UK has trails to suit pilgrims of all spiritual persuasions and walking abilities.” Oliver Smith, in the Sunday Times 28.6.2026.
Yesterday was the feast of James the Great, the patron saint of Spain and the first of the disciples to be martyred although he was the second of them to die, after Judas Iscariot. King Herod Agrippa I had him put to the sword – probably beheaded – in AD 44, possibly due to James’ fiery temper which, along with his brother John, lead to them being called ‘the Sons of Thunder’.
The apostle’s remains are now thought to be in the shrine at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela because James took the gospel to Spain where, exhausted and disheartened by a lack of converts, he had a vision of the Virgin Mary in AD 40. This was remarkable as it happened while Mary was still alive and is her first recorded appearance. She comforted James and asked him to build a small chapel which later evolved into the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar in Zaragoza. James then returned to Judea but, following his martyrdom, his body was taken back to Spain where, in 1492, the Camino de Santiago was declared by Pope Alexander VI to be one of the three great Christian pilgrimages, the others being Jerusalem and Rome.
Today, hundreds of thousands of people follow the Camino, the Way which is a network of cycling and walking routes to the Cathedral. It’s an impressive building, noted for many things, one of which is the Botafumeiro – a thurible or incense burner, traditionally used to indicate prayers rising to heaven. However, the overwhelming body odour of the many pilgrims crowding into the Cathedral at the end of a lengthy pilgrimage was unbearable and so the Botafumeiro had the practical purpose of also being an air freshener! At 1.6m or 5.2 feet high and weighing 80kg or 180 lb, it uses 40kg or 88lb of charcoal and incense, with eight tiraboleiros needed to pull the ropes to start it moving as it swings across the Cathedral at speeds of up to 80km or 50mph. When I was there, it was so near our heads that many people ducked, although there was no actual danger other than the smoke and fragrance pouring out, making some people cough.
What a contrast with St Melangell’s, the destination of Pererindod Melangell, one route for a pilgrimage to the Shrine Church. Rather than the grandeur of the Cathedral, the church here is simple and remote, housing the restoration of what is the earliest surviving Romanesque Shrine in Britain, dating from the 12th century. Many pilgrims from differing backgrounds and varying faith traditions have made their way here, which is today designated by Oliver Smith to be “one of the most beautiful British pilgrimage destinations” – further details from hello@britishpilgrimage.org
St James, so discouraged during his time In Spain before he had his vision of Mary, did as she requested and built a small chapel where this happened – the first to be dedicated to Mary. He could not have known of the Basilica which developed later, but tradition suggests that he did regain the courage to go to his death with bravery and hope. Perhaps there are times for all of us when we may feel disheartened for a variety of reasons or may find that what we thought was a holy experience turns out to have very down to earth with practical implications like the Botafumeiro. Wherever our Way through life leads us, and whether we may or may not profess faith, places like Compostela or Pennant Melangell and the many other holy places the world over may widen our horizons and enable a vision to become a reality. As Oliver Smith writes, “Even those who struggle to believe in the words of a book can, it seems, draw lessons from the physical path unfurling before them.”
What is unfurling before us today?
With my prayers; pob bendith,
Christine, Priest Guardian.

